We got up before the sun rose. The apostle Paul and Philippi beckoned and we wanted to make the most of the cool of the morning. It was 20C when we left. This was the view from our apartment as the sun made its daily appearance.
We arrived at 8am, the opening time for the ancient site, only no one seemed to have told anyone there! It only took a few minutes and we were the first in. Number 1 on the map was the acropolis, so we took advantage of the hill being in shadow and started to climb.
We were told that there was a zig zag path up, but it was badly signposted and we couldn't find it, so we made our own way up over boulders and loose rocks - how hard can it be? Very. My fit bit (I call it my fat bot) didn't know what had hit it and it started buzzing at me every few minutes as some new target had been reached. It was tough going but with a bit of 'push me pull you' we made it, glad of the shade of the Byzantine fort, a cool breeze and a bottle of water.
The views were stunning. You can see the ancient town at the bottom of the hill, middle left.
A roman road below, perhaps?
There was evidence of many fortifications up here but sadly the acropolis buildings had long since disappeared.
On the way down we thankfully found the path, which led to the museum. When we told the staff what we had done they looked at us in horror and started talking about the danger of snakes hidden in the rocks. Fortunately a friendly dog accompanied us all the way up and all the way down and I think she would have let us know if we had disturbed one. That's what we were hoping, anyway!
The museum was excellent and showed many artefacts from antiquity, many of them Christian, when churches were built right across the site. This beautiful, but sadly incomplete, lamb of God...
... doves of peace...
... and anchors of hope.
The craftsmanship on all the exhibits was exquisite, including this capital from the top of a column which supported one of the basilicas.
The town suffered yet another earthquake in the seventh century and was finally abandoned, only to become a source of building materials and eventually the prized location of archaeologists from the early twentieth century onwards. I got into trouble with some twenty first century archaeologists when I strayed into their area and took a photo of them at work.
In my defence, there were no signs to suggest I was trespassing, but rather than defend myself I went on the offensive with my favourite archeologist joke. What profession makes an ideal husband? An archaeologist, because the older you get the more interesting you become. They loved it, laughed and wished me a good visit.
The forum led to the remains of one of the earliest known Christian buildings(c.4th), an unusual octagonal structure with wonderful mosaics.
And Baptistry of course. No fonts here.
When Paul was in Philippi he got into trouble with the authorities and was imprisoned. This is, apparently, where he spent the night, though they must have rebuilt it since Paul's stay as it was destroyed by an earthquake. (see Acts 16)
Want to see inside? It's a bit disappointing.
The highlight of our visit to Ephesus a few years ago was reading Paul's letter to the Ephesians out loud in one of the ancient rooms.
The highlight of our visit to Philippi was the same, only I read his letter to the Philippians, and this time I read it out loud in the theatre, some stopping to listen and others ignoring this crazy Englishman.
I felt very emotional as I read and had to stop at one point as tears blurred my vision and I could no longer read the text. It was when I reached the 21st verse of chapter 1 that the difficulties started: "For me to live is Christ and to die is gain." This really connected with some of the personal work God has been doing in my life while on sabbatical.
We moved on, but only a mile away, to the village of Lidia. By now it was 36C and we were glad to be by a river. A very special river, though 'stream' might be more accurate.
This is where the first Christian baptism in Europe took place. Just after some rapids a deep pool is found (with some large trout in it). This is the most likely place where Paul met and baptised Lydia. Again I read from the New Testament, this time from Acts chapter 16 and the story of Lydia's conversion.
There is, of course, a Greek orthodox church nearby (with loud voices in what appeared to be disagreement coming from the sacristy!).
The church is a celebration of baptism stories from the Bible, so I was happy to be there, though the soundtrack was a bit off putting. Beautiful mosaics adorned the walls, with the top of the dome being reserved for the baptism of Jesus. By John the Baptist, the only Christian denomination mentioned in the bible. Well, he wasn't John the Anglican, was he?
Today has been a very special day, walking in the footsteps of Paul and Lydia. Reading the relevant Scriptures in the very place to which they are connected is, again, an experience I will never forget, especially knowing the touch of God by his Spirit as I read.
Thank you, Jesus, that you are the same person who transformed Lydia and who, by God's grace, transforms me.
